Fall trip to Abkhazia: crumbling but affordable, says Russian traveler
Snow is rare in Abkhazia; winter, like in Sochi, is rainy.
The channel on Yandex Zen «Let»s Go on Vacation« published a story by traveler Alima about a trip to Abkhazia in October of last year. The young woman went there not alone, but with her sister and a one-year-old child. The Russian woman described a country of contrasts, where ruined architecture and inexpensive vacations leave vivid impressions. We publish her text in the first person.
The main advantage of Abkhazia in winter is empty beaches.
Journey, First Impression, and Ghost Town by the Sea
The driving style in Abkhazia shocks many Russian tourists.
— We flew to Abkhazia in October with my sister and a one-year-old baby without plans or preparations. We arrived in Sochi, and then by car-sharing we reached the border with Abkhazia. There is a queue, but it moves quickly.
For Russians tired of winter and snow, Abkhazia is a salvation.
On the flight from Moscow to Sochi, we saved a lot. A couple of days before departure, we found «last-minute tickets» — we managed with just over 6,000 rubles (about $60 at current rates) per person.
We crossed the border, and immediately the differences catch the eye: old mossy buildings — some unfinished, some abandoned. Bus stops laid with mosaic tiles, once bright — now half-destroyed and unused.
Lush vegetation excellently masks unfinished and abandoned buildings.
To be honest, there is a certain atmosphere to it, as if you are in a ghost town at times. But no, life goes on, people live here — and they are warm and hospitable. The sea was nearby, but it looked unwelcoming. We didn«t risk swimming.
In Abkhazia, they have started sterilizing and chipping stray dogs.
For the first night, we stayed in the private sector within walking distance of the border, right on the seashore — almost every house has a rental ad. Late October is already off-season, there are few tourists, finding accommodation is as easy as pie. A day cost 2000 rubles (about $20 at current rates). The next day, we moved inland by minibus, 350 rubles (about $3.50 at current rates) per person from the border to New Athos.
Accommodation in New Athos: View of the Monastery and Grapes
For a longer stay, we chose a small hotel in New Athos. A large bed, sofa, shower and toilet in the room, necessary furniture, and access to a veranda with a view of the New Athos Monastery right from the room. Even a little car for the child miraculously appeared on the veranda. And below it — grapevines. Since we vacationed off-season and spent several days there, we agreed on 1500 rubles (about $15 at current rates) per day.
We admired the monastery from the room, but it turned out we couldn«t make it to it. It is located on a very decent elevation. First, we climbed the hill with the baby in a stroller. On the way, we enjoyed the views of the sea and greenery around.
And then — a guard at the entrance to the monastery territory, who informed us that we would need to go uphill on a dirt road for another 2 kilometers, and the stroller simply wouldn«t pass there. All cars also stay there. We decided that we are not well-trained enough to continue the journey, even though we really wanted to see the beautiful monastery.
But we did get into the New Athos Cave. The entrance cost — 700 rubles (about $7 at current rates), with a tour. In the cave — lighting and classical music. The paths for tourists are slippery, quite cool (about 11°C or 52°F), the tour lasts about 1.5 hours. Touching the surrounding stalactites and especially breaking them off is not allowed, with a fine of 30,000 rubles (about $300 at current rates). The New Athos Waterfall impressed us no less. A small staircase from the waterfall leads up to the lake. It was pleasant to walk on a sunny day along the mossy stone paths, listen to the noise of falling water, feel the water dust on the face.
Weather and Thermal Springs: We Swam Not in the Sea, but in the Mountains
Regarding the weather — closer to the end of October, it«s warm enough (daytime about 15-20°C or 59-68°F, at night, of course, colder), the sun pleasantly warms, rains also occurred, but short. Swimming is still possible, I saw such enthusiasts, but not many. We ourselves didn»t go into the sea, contented ourselves with a walk on the beach and examining the whimsical pebbles.
But we did go into the hot springs, and that«s really great! The good old minibus took us to the Kyndyg Thermal Springs.
Right at the entrance — a lake with boiling water, emitting steam. It looks mesmerizing. On the territory of the complex — three pools with water at 35-40°C (95-104°F), barrels with icy water, and a row of loungers under a Charcot shower.
Changing cabins are outdoors, with hooks for clothes in a row. This moment is somehow not thought out at all. You leave your things and shoes, hoping for the decency of those around and that, upon returning, you will see them in place and have something to leave in. Fortunately, everyone turned out to be decent, and no one needed our goods. But things hang one on another, there are clearly fewer hooks than visitors. Not good!
I visited a hot spring for the first time in my life, really liked languishing in the pool. I even tasted the thermal water with a peculiar mineral smell — an interesting experience. And the jets hitting the body from a height — excellent massage. In general, it«s an outdoor spa, pleasant relaxation and rest.
Money and Food: Cash, Churchkhela, and Giant Khachapuri
Cash, by the way, is better to withdraw in advance. In Abkhazia, rubles are in use. I didn«t see ATMs, although they certainly exist somewhere. In small shops and stalls, they also prefer to see cash.
Now about the tasty. Abkhazian churchkhela (a traditional candy) is a delightful treat! I tried churchkhela in Turkey and in Sochi, but here — the best, in my opinion. Of course, if it«s fresh. 150 rubles (about $1.50 at current rates) for a long sausage. Dried persimmon is also wonderfully good, melts in the mouth. Homemade wine we bought several times in different places — didn»t impress at all. Maybe we were unlucky, and there are still tasty options, but we didn«t experiment further.
Despite many abandoned buildings, in Abkhazia it«s pleasant and soulful! And opposite the shell-shaped bus stop in New Athos, there is a tiny cafe. A woman there cooks delicious huge khachapuri, 400 rubles (about $4 at current rates) apiece. One such giant can feed two hungry adults.
Also, there are small restaurants with home cooking and shashlik, we had lunch a couple of times, tasty and affordable. For example, shashlik with a good portion of fresh vegetable salad — 350 rubles (about $3.50 at current rates).
Abkhazia is a pleasant country for vacation with its shortcomings, but why worry about them when there is sun, sea, tasty food, and beautiful landscapes, — summarized the author.
